Bar La Ópera: Inside Mexico City’s Most Historic Cantina
Ornate ceiling moldings, fin-de-siècle trim decadently awash in gold leaf, sinuous Art Nouveau tendrils curling from the wall sconces, a …
Author Archives: janus2
How to Get a COVID Test in Mexico City–minus the Headaches
The gods of the CDC have spoken: to fly back to the U.S. from your Mexico City sojourn, you need …
El Fortín de Acosasco: Dark Holdover from León, Nicaragua’s Days of Dictatorship
Perched on a low hilltop, with airy views of the city of León and the Maribios Volcanos to the north, …
Dark Tourism: Eight Eerie Latin American Destinations to Visit This Witching Season
That the Earth hath its bubbles—its murky, forbidden places—is no secret to any traveler. Prisons, hospitals, crime scenes, concentration camps: …
“I’m Responsible for the Pisco Sour”: Hanging with Don Eloy Cuadros, Legendary Bartender at Lima’s Hotel Maury
“About Chileans, bueno, I’m not going to say anything,” says Don Eloy Cuadros, waving his hand dismissively. “We all know …
Discovering Joy in Bogotá’s Historic La Candelaria
Bogotá, noontime. I’m here in the Chorro de Quevedo, a sun-splashed plaza abuzz with college kids in the city’s downtown. …
In Lima’s Cathedral, Unearthing a Conquistador’s 500-Year-Old Mystery
“It was vicious. More than 16 wounds: deep, penetrating cuts, done with real force. Really, it was an atrocious death.” …
In Cuzco’s Historic Streets, a Search for Inca Walls
From upstairs comes the thudding beat: muted synths, bone-shivering bass. It rattles the windows, dark now, of the Aldo jewelry …
In Lima’s Rímac District, Discovering Peru’s Viceregal Past
Lima. Late Sunday evening in the working-class district of Rímac, and the crowds of pedestrians are finally thinning out on …
