“I’m Responsible for the Pisco Sour”: Hanging with Don Eloy Cuadros, Legendary Bartender at Lima’s Hotel Maury
“About Chileans, bueno, I’m not going to say anything,” says Don Eloy Cuadros, waving his hand dismissively. “We all know …
Author Archives: janus2
Discovering Joy in Bogotá’s Historic La Candelaria
Bogotá, noontime. I’m here in the Chorro de Quevedo, a sun-splashed plaza abuzz with college kids in the city’s downtown. …
In Lima’s Cathedral, Unearthing a Conquistador’s 500-Year-Old Mystery
“It was vicious. More than 16 wounds: deep, penetrating cuts, done with real force. Really, it was an atrocious death.” …
In Cuzco’s Historic Streets, a Search for Inca Walls
From upstairs comes the thudding beat: muted synths, bone-shivering bass. It rattles the windows, dark now, of the Aldo jewelry …
In Lima’s Rímac District, Discovering Peru’s Viceregal Past
Lima. Late Sunday evening in the working-class district of Rímac, and the crowds of pedestrians are finally thinning out on …
Bogotá Food: A Survival Guide
So we’ll start by admitting the obvious: Colombian food is mediocre. Not bad. Not disgusting. Just mediocre. Often bland, rarely …
In Lima, Lunching at Home with the Man Who Invented Ceviche
Pedro Solari is having trouble remembering the last Peruvian president’s name. “Techi,” he says, looking up from his wheelchair, …
Going Retro in Buenos Aires’s Historic San Telmo
Buenos Aires, Sunday morning. A brisk 48 degrees. I’m clutching my styrofoam coffee cup tight as I stand in the …
So, Where Exactly Does One Buy Books in Lima?
El Virrey Bookstore, Miraflores Truth be told, it’s by no means an easy proposition. You’d think, what with a metro …
