Bar La Ópera: Inside Mexico City’s Most Historic Cantina
Ornate ceiling moldings, fin-de-siècle trim decadently awash in gold leaf, sinuous Art Nouveau tendrils curling from the wall sconces, a …
Category Archives: Latin American History
El Fortín de Acosasco: Dark Holdover from León, Nicaragua’s Days of Dictatorship
Perched on a low hilltop, with airy views of the city of León and the Maribios Volcanos to the north, …
Dark Tourism: Eight Eerie Latin American Destinations to Visit This Witching Season
That the Earth hath its bubbles—its murky, forbidden places—is no secret to any traveler. Prisons, hospitals, crime scenes, concentration camps: …
“I’m Responsible for the Pisco Sour”: Hanging with Don Eloy Cuadros, Legendary Bartender at Lima’s Hotel Maury
“About Chileans, bueno, I’m not going to say anything,” says Don Eloy Cuadros, waving his hand dismissively. “We all know …
In Lima’s Cathedral, Unearthing a Conquistador’s 500-Year-Old Mystery
“It was vicious. More than 16 wounds: deep, penetrating cuts, done with real force. Really, it was an atrocious death.” …
In Cuzco’s Historic Streets, a Search for Inca Walls
From upstairs comes the thudding beat: muted synths, bone-shivering bass. It rattles the windows, dark now, of the Aldo jewelry …
In Lima’s Rímac District, Discovering Peru’s Viceregal Past
Lima. Late Sunday evening in the working-class district of Rímac, and the crowds of pedestrians are finally thinning out on …
In Lima, Lunching at Home with the Man Who Invented Ceviche
Pedro Solari is having trouble remembering the last Peruvian president’s name. “Techi,” he says, looking up from his wheelchair, …
Going Retro in Buenos Aires’s Historic San Telmo
Buenos Aires, Sunday morning. A brisk 48 degrees. I’m clutching my styrofoam coffee cup tight as I stand in the …
