In Cuzco’s Historic Streets, a Search for Inca Walls
From upstairs comes the thudding beat: muted synths, bone-shivering bass. It rattles the windows, dark now, of the Aldo jewelry …
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In Lima’s Rímac District, Discovering Peru’s Viceregal Past
Lima. Late Sunday evening in the working-class district of Rímac, and the crowds of pedestrians are finally thinning out on …
Bogotá Food: A Survival Guide
So we’ll start by admitting the obvious: Colombian food is mediocre. Not bad. Not disgusting. Just mediocre. Often bland, rarely …
In Lima, Lunching at Home with the Man Who Invented Ceviche
Pedro Solari is having trouble remembering the last Peruvian president’s name. “Techi,” he says, looking up from his wheelchair, …
Going Retro in Buenos Aires’s Historic San Telmo
Buenos Aires, Sunday morning. A brisk 48 degrees. I’m clutching my styrofoam coffee cup tight as I stand in the …
So, Where Exactly Does One Buy Books in Lima?
El Virrey Bookstore, Miraflores Truth be told, it’s by no means an easy proposition. You’d think, what with a metro …
Peru’s Stonehenge: The Mysterious Ruins of Sillustani
The skies were already threatening rain when Carla, my Peruvian guide, stepped off the bus with me at the turnoff …
On Peru’s Tiny Taquile Island, a Refuge of Peace
The pilot cuts the motor, allowing the boat to drift lazily as it bumps up to the dock. Smells: sun-warmed …
Equator/Ecuador: Searching for the Big Line at Quito’s Mitad del Mundo
“Bueno, these things I do not know, pues I am not scientific. But in this way they informed me.” Doña …
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